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| Just a pub in Marlow... |
I've wanted to go to The Hand and Flowers since before Tom Kerridge became a TV star (well sort of-it was after seeing him on Great British Menu but before he had his own show). I've been to another Michelin starred pub and although it was nice I wasn't blown away (the pub in question did lose its star not long after). So I was intrigued to see what a two Michelin star pub would be like (the only two Michelin starred pub in the UK). We had also very much enjoyed a Tom Kerridge/James Martin double act at the Good Food Show in Birmingham before Christmas. Unfortunately since Tom has become more well known trying to get a table is becoming increasingly difficult. We booked quite a long way in advance for a latish weekday lunch.
We arrived a little early and just about managed to find a table in the bar, which was already a plus compared to The Fat Duck (which doesn't have any extra room for chilling pre or post meal). This gave us even more time to ponder the menu (having already been spent quite a lot of time pondering online), and have a drink.
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| Hand and Flowers ale |
We were taken through to able table in a cosy corner and had even more time to ponder the menu. Perusing a menu isn't something I'm particularly used to-most of the time I go for tasting menus or have limited choice on a lunch menu. But here the lunch menu (although very good value) is really pretty restrictive and having waited so long to get a table I guess it's natural to want to get the full experience so it had to be the a la carte menu.
Whilst still pondering (the service wasn't particularly speedy which was fine as we wanted a leisurely lunch but could have been a little frustrating if you'd had less time) we were brought some white bait and sour dough bread. We could here the orders being called out in the kitchen although unfortunately not the West Country twang of Tom.
I actually found my starter choice relatively easy-two of the dishes contained fois gras (I've now tried this twice and really don't get it), a few others contained ingredients that I'm a little suspicious of-smooked eel, scallops, and pig's head. So I was pretty much left with the salt cod scotch egg. Not surprisingly this was salty, but that was balanced by a red pepper sauce.
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| Salt cod scotch egg with red pepper sauce and chorizo |
However, maybe by restricting my choice I was missing out? A friend was being a little adventurous and went for the crispy pig's head and said it was possibly the best starter he has ever had!
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| Crispy pig's head with rhubarb, pancetta and chickweed |
I did feel like the main course was a big decision though. Looking at the menu online before the trip I was pretty sure I wanted to go for the duck dish that had been chosen as the main course for the 2010 series of Great British Menu. However when I was actually there was a venison dish that sounded like it had a lot of interesting components. It was lovely, the only slight disappointment was that I wasn't sure what they meant by carrot cake/whether it had been forgotten. We also had side dishes of Hand and Flowers chips (possibly the best chips I've ever had) and buttered brussel tops (which he made to look very appealing during his recent Christmas TV show).
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| Wiltshire venison and Hand and Flowers carrot, game ragout, lime, toasted lentil dahl and carrot cake |
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| Hand and Flowers chips and buttered brussel tops |
There were a few interesting desserts. I went for Hand and Flowers chocolate and ale cake with salted caramel and muscovado ice cream. It came with a little shot of ale as well, which was a nice touch (although concerned me slightly that together with the glass of wine I'd had I might end up being over the limit). Whereas a friend opted for a very pretty "Dragon's eye" tea, I had "builder's tea in a mug" although we all agreed that the mug was a bit too nice for a building site. Again just a little disappointingly you had to pay extra for petit fours.
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| Hand and Flowers chocolate and ale cake with salted caramel and muscovado ice cream |
I think this is a serious restaurant dressed as a pub (and that isn't meant as a criticism). It actually offers a good way to experience Michelin starred food without the pomp and circumstance that sometimes goes with it (and annoys some people). Although you are still most definitely paying for it. Whereas the fat duck was all about the experience this place is all about the food, and they certainly serve up very good food.
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